Luxury Watch Round-Up: Audemars, Access and Under-the-Radar Indies
A look back at some new releases and what April taught us about time, tariffs and tastemakers.
April reminded me of two things. One, you can’t outrun pollen. And two, life comes at you fast when you're chasing time zones and sleep. I closed out my winter with one last run on the slopes before swapping snow boots for sambas and heading to Geneva for Watches and Wonders, with a brief but glorious layover in a sunlit Paris. Somewhere along the way, my words featured in the New York Times. Thank you to Victoria Gomelsky for the featuring me and Kathrine Marks for capturing me in my element.
While the month flew by, we're zooming in on the moments that really caught my eye. Audemars Piguet made waves, Nixon dropped new heat, and tariffs are making things interesting for collectors. Let’s dive in, shall we?
Quiet Confidence Speaks Volumes
Watches and Wonders might be behind us, but I’m still deep in the post-show glow. Brands showed out in the Palexpo and beyond. One brand that slid in quietly at the start of the month with a few bangers? Audemars Piguet. They didn’t make a fuss. They didn’t need to. The vibe was very much: hold my purse babe, let me show you how it’s done!
The jade blue Code 11.59 was the first to grab my attention. The Code collection has long lived in the Royal Oak’s shadow, but this piece proves AP isn’t giving up on it. Nor should they. The jade dial feels unexpected in the best way - elegant, serene, and rich with presence. It’s not chasing trends; it’s setting tone. With the brand celebrating its 150th birthday this year, I’m sure this is just the beginning of many surprises. I also got hands-on with the 38mm Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in sand gold. And I mean it when I say: breathtaking! The tone of the case, the dimensionality of the dial, the way it plays with light—it’s a quiet kind of drama. Feminine in form, but fierce in finish. Like I said before, this year, we’re seeing brands lean into femininity with intention and edge, and this piece is a prime example. And I’m very here for it.
Indie Darlings and Affordability
Affordable watches don’t always get their shine, which is why I was genuinely excited to see Nixon drop the Frankie. For under $200, it’s a clean all-metal piece in gold or silver that you can throw on with literally anything. Stack it. Style it. Take it from brunch to rooftop cocktails. I also previewed a few more accessible options under $2,000 from Baltic and Frederique Constant. I’d love to tell you more, but embargoes are keeping my lips sealed. Just know that the girls are going to love them!
Keeping with the independent theme, Beda’a is another name flying under the radar. They launched the Angles collection which I got to check out at the Beau Rivage in Geneva - a necessary pit stop if you’re doing Watches and Wonders next year. The watch channels Arabian architecture with an octagonal 30mm case that’s compact, curved for comfort, and quietly striking. But the real tea? That fogged lacquer dial. From afar it reads clean and minimal, but up close you catch faded Roman numerals hidden beneath the gloss. It’s mysterious, moody, and priced under $1,000. A quiet banger, no doubt.
Luxury’s Price Tag is Shifting
One of the big talking points last month? Tariffs. Now, I’m not an economist and I definitely can’t see the future, but this shift feels like both a warning and an opportunity. In 2024, Swiss watch exports to the U.S. rose by 5 percent, hitting CHF 4.372 billion, while demand from China softened post-COVID. To put that in perspective, China’s total for the same period was CHF 2.053 billion. So yes, America has become the Swiss watch industry’s biggest customer.
But with Switzerland now facing a 31 percent tariff, U.S. buyers could be paying up to a third more for that Rolex or Cartier than they did last year. Ouch! This puts Swiss brands like Rolex and Richemont in a tricky spot. The demand is clearly there, but shifting production outside Switzerland isn’t an easy fix when the country still holds the lion’s share of industry expertise.
On the flip side, this might be the perfect moment for U.S. based or independent brands to shine. Think Timex, Shinola or even more high-end brands like J. N. Shapiro. More collectors might also start turning to the pre-loved market, especially if prices for new pieces keep climbing. One thing’s for sure: the landscape is changing, and fast.
Cameos in Quartz and Gold
Now, I’d be remiss not to spotlight a couple of watch spotting moments in April that blended style with culture. Dominique Malonga, the 19-year-old French basketball star, made history as the youngest player ever drafted into the WNBA, as the second overall pick and is headed to Seattle. She marked the occasion with a Movado Bold 2.0, a sleek and affordable piece from an American-headquartered brand with Swiss manufacturing roots. Movado might not always get its flowers, but it was refreshing to see the brand represented at such an incredible moment. Just like Dominique, the Bold was young, modern and ready for the spotlight. She completed her look with a custom Louis Vuitton suit.
That same confident energy was on full display in D.C., where Beyonce’s mama - Ms. Tina Knowles - launched her memoir Matriarch. Our forever First Lady Michelle Obama hosted the event, and the two icons gave “aunties at brunch” energy. The ladies were sharing stories, dropping gems and laughing along the way. Michelle wore a Yvonne Leone ring watch paired with bright green nails. It was a lesson in statement style: 18k gold, a mother-of-pearl dial, diamond markers and a halo of stones that gave vintage glamour a fresh, modern edge. They say cocktail watches are making a comeback, and naturally, I’m here for it. Let’s not forget the double-breasted Alexander McQueen suit! Michelle absolutely owned that look. Menswear is having a moment honey, and the ladies are devouring it! Roll on the Met Gala.
That’s it from me for now. See you next time!